Thursday, November 23, 2006

Ein voller Tag - Zu Besuch in Bethlehem

Ein voller Tag – zu Besuch in Bethlehem
19. November 2006

Es ist Sonntag. Ich bin zu Gast beim Bethlehem-Team. Am Abend davor war Zeit, die Wohn- und Arbeitsverhältnisse des Teams in Bethlehem kennen zu lernen. Monique hatte mich von Jerusalem aus, wo sie zu tun hatte, mitgenommen. Carl, der auch im Bethlehem-Team arbeitet, war später am Abend gekommen, mit Asa, die wie ich die-sen Besuch gemacht hat. Asa arbeitet normalerweise in Yanoun, einem kleinen Dorf, das südlich von Nablus liegt und von israelischen Siedlern bedroht ist. Die gegensei-tigen Besuche der Freiwilligen gehören zum Programm dazu. Sie sollen uns ermögli-chen, die anderen Einsatzorte kennen zu lernen, auch die unterschiedlichen Arbeits-weisen der Teams. Danach sieht jeder seine eigene Situation wieder anders, also ich meine Situation in Jerusalem, mit dem anonymen urbanen Stadtleben, den vielen öffentlichen Ereignissen und den Kontakten zu beiden, palästinensischen und israeli-schen Friedensgruppen bzw. Kooperations-Zentren; aber auch mit den geringeren sozialen oder familiären Kontakten.

Es ist also Sonntag. Wir sind früh aufgestanden, kurz nach 4 Uhr. Viertel vor 5 Uhr waren wir schon am großen Kontrollpunkt, der entweder mit der Nummer 300 angegeben wird oder mit dem Namen der nächsten israelischen Siedlung, „Gilo-Kontrollpunkt“. Den Kontrollpunkt kannte ich, ich bin schon einige Male dort durch gegangen. Jetzt war es noch dunkel. Und schon lange vor der Mauer, die hier 8 Me-ter hoch ist, standen die Männer in Arbeitskleidung, die nach Jerusalem „hinüber“ wollten. Es sind meist Männer, Frauen gehen hier offensichtlich nur in geringer Zahl über die Grenze. Wir haben die Zahl der Wartenden auf ca. 800 geschätzt. Sie ste-hen dicht, zu zweit oder dritt hintereinander, nach 100 Metern beginnt ein doppelter Gang, mit festem Metallgitter eingezäunt, für jede Richtung, nach und von Jerusa-lem. Es ist ein Gang, ein Meter breit, in dem man sich wie Vieh fühlt, das zur Schur, oder zur Waage oder zur Schlachtung geführt wird. Menschen mit Klaustrophobie müssen diese Gitter-Tunnel, die etwa 400 Meter lang sind, fürchten. Jetzt, vor 5 Uhr, ist der Weg in das Terminal hinein voll von Wartenden. Wir gehen an ihnen vorbei und stellen uns am Ende auf, wo dieTür, die in das Terminal hinein führt, geschlos-sen ist und warten. Schon bei diesem Gang an den Wartenden vorbei grüßen uns einige der Männer oder rufen uns etwas zu. Viertel nach 5 Uhr, 15 Minuten über die Zeit des Abfertigungsbeginnes hinaus, ist die Tür immer noch verschlossen. Monique telefoniert mit der Verbindungsstelle der Armee. Wieder 5 Minuten später – die Män-ner werden laut und verlangen, dass geöffnet wird – telefoniert sie mit der Komman-dozentrale im Grenzpunkt. Und da kommt ein Soldat, setzt sich in das Wachhäu-schen, das wir drinnen sehen können, und öffnet die Tür.

Wir haben uns dann auf verschiedene Abschnitte aufgeteilt. Wenn man die erste Tür in der Mauer und die Drehtür gleich dahinter mit einrechnet, muss der Passant durch fünf Türen bzw. Drehtüren gehen, die dritte ist die Sicherheitskontrolle mit den scharf eingestellten Metall-Detektoren und die fünfte ist die Personenkontrolle. Der Passant muss über einen großen Hof gehen, mit der Mauer im Rücken und dem eigentlichen Terminal vor sich. Auf der Mauer, steht in Riesenlettern: „Willkommen im Heiligen Land!“, das sieht aber nur der nach Bethlehem Reisende bzw. die zurück kehrenden Arbeiter am Abend, wenn sie nach Hause, nach Bethlehem wollen. Vor dem Termi-nal hängen nun die ersten Schilder mit Anweisungen, in der Sprache freundlich gehalten, als handle es sich um einen Gang durch ein Einkaufszentrum. Im Terminal selber „hängen“ über den Kontrollanlagen Metallgänge, auf denen gelegentlich Sol-daten stehen oder patrouillieren, schwer bewaffnet, allein oder zu zweien. Überall hängen Kameras. Der Effekt ist: dass man unvermittelt über seinem Kopf einen Sol-datenstiefel wahrnimmt und dann erinnert wird, dass die ganze Anlage eine Militäran-lage ist. Und manchmal wird man angerufen, immer in diesem überdrehten Lautsprecherton, der einen zusammen fahren lässt: Weitergehen! Zieh deine Schuhe aus! Geh zurück! Halt deinen Ausweis hoch! Und so fort.

Die Atmosphäre, die ein solches „Terminal“ ausstrahlt, ist bedrohlich und feindselig. Manchmal äußert sich einer der Palästinenser dazu. Ich werde die Studentin, die das zum ersten Mal in gutem Englisch und in sehr zurückhaltenden Worten getan hat, nicht vergessen: „Hier gehen wir von einem Teil unseres Lebens in einen anderen, von einem Teil unseres Landes in einen anderen. Bethlehem ist auch unsere Ge-burtsstadt, nicht nur die von Jesus. Und Jerusalem ist unsere Hauptstadt. Warum zwingt man uns durch diese schreckliche Anlage, die uns klein und furchtsam macht?!“

Wir zählen die offenen Fenster, die Personenkontrollen, hinter denen Ausweis und Arbeitsgenehmigungen überprüft werden. Heute sind es zwischen vier und fünf (von insgesamt acht). Manchmal wird eines geschlossen, wenn eine der meist jungen weiblichen Beamtinnen der Grenzpolizei, das Gewehr umgehängt, ihre Kabine ver-lässt, vielleicht für einen Kaffee, vielleicht für den Gang zur Toilette. Für die „Passan-ten“, die hier jeden Tag durch müssen, ist beides undenkbar, hier gibt es weder Kaf-fee noch eine Toilette. Viele trinken erst an ihrem Arbeitsplatz, weil jedes Bedürfnis, das innerhalb dieser unfreundlichen Anlage auftaucht, sehr lästig werden kann. Wenn eine Beamtin ihre Arbeit unterbricht, rennen alle aus dieser Schlange nach links oder rechts und dann beginnt ein Drängeln, Streiten und manchmal, oder eher selten, auch ein Handgemenge. Und immer ist jemand da, der einen der Streitenden zu sich heran zieht, komm hierher, sagt der dann wohl, hält den Widerstrebenden fest oder nimmt ihn besänftigend in den Arm. Das habe ich einige Male gesehen und sehr bewundert. Man kann sich dem Stress, der den Durchreisenden hier über-kommt, kaum entziehen. Die Luft war schon nach der ersten Stunde schlecht, in der die Beamten der Grenzpolizei die weit über tausend Passanten zählende Schlange abgearbeitet hat (nachdem wir gekommen waren, war ja der Strom der neu eintref-fenden Grenzgänger weiter angewachsen). Manchmal hatte man das Bedürfnis, ein-fach irgendwie raus zu rennen, nur um an frische Luft zu kommen. Dann, nach dieser Stunde, öffnete einer der Soldaten, die zum Schutz der Abfertigungs-Beamten da sind, eine Seitentür, die für die Abgewiesenen da ist. Wir zählen auch die Leute, die pro Beamtin und pro Minute abgefertigt werden.

Einer der Männer hat mir dabei erzählt, dass nach seiner Erfahrung hier sehr unter-schiedlich gearbeitet wird: Zügig, wenn der Kommandant anwesend ist, und sehr nachlässig, mit manchmal nur zwei Durchlässen, wenn er nicht anwesend ist. Es ist gut, dass ihr da seid. Da geben sie sich mehr Mühe. Überhaupt hören wir oft, auch an diesem Morgen, so etwas wie Dank und die Einschätzung, dass unsere Anwe-senheit hier wichtig ist. Dazu muss ich auch sagen, dass es erstaunlich und gar nicht selbstverständlich ist, dass wir überhaupt hier mitten in der Anlage stehen, beobach-ten und Notizen machen, oder unsere Handys für Anrufe bei der Hotline benutzen dürfen. Das wäre doch z.B. in den DDR-Grenzkontrollstellen undenkbar gewesen.

Punkt 7 Uhr tauchen auf der Jerusalemer Seite, für uns hinter der letzten Barriere der Personenkontrolle, drei Frauen von Machsom Watch auf. Tatsächlich haben wir auch den ersten Fall einer Abweisung, Geschrei der jungen Beamtin, das Eingreifen eines Offiziers und der drei israelischen Frauen. Für einige Minuten können wir noch ver-folgen, was dort geschieht, dann sind alle verschwunden: Der junge Palästinenser, die schimpfende Beamtin, der ruhige Offizier und die israelischen Mütter, die hier jeden Morgen für eine Stunde diese Aufgabe auf sich nehmen, „ihre Söhne“, wie sie sagen, bei der Kontrolle der Palästinenser zu beobachten. Später erfahre ich durch einen Anruf bei einer der Frauen die Geschichte dazu. Es ging um einen Studenten, der in der Bethlehemer Zweigstelle der Al-Quds-Universität ein Examen schreiben wollte; der aber mit seinem Jerusalemer Ausweis nur nach Abu Dis, nicht nach Beth-lehem „ausreisen“ durfte. Die Frauen haben ihn an einer Straße abgesetzt, wo er ohne großes Risiko eine Lücke im System nutzen konnte. Ein Lob also für die israeli-schen Mütter, die sein Problem mit Rat für die grundsätzliche Lösung und mit Tat erstmal für diesen Tag gesorgt haben.

Eine Geschichte am Rand: Mit einem Mann habe ich mich unterhalten, weil er mich zweimal am Ärmel gezupft und angesprochen hat: Ich soll doch bitte die schnellere Abfertigung an diesem Fenster bewerkstelligen. Er hatte schon 20 Minuten dort in der Reihe gestanden. Dann kam er aufgeregt und wollte sich beschweren. Mann hat-te ihn nicht durch gelassen, sondern zurück geschickt. Die Umstehenden konnten ihn überzeugen, dass ich nicht der richtige Ansprechpartner für seinen Zorn sei. Abrupt wandte er sich ab. Er war groß und trug die Burka und die Keffiya mit schwarz-weiß gewürfeltem Muster. Das Tuch nahm er nun ab und verstaute es in seiner Burka. Dann ging er auf eine benachbarte Schlange Wartender zu und bat darum, vorgelas-sen zu werden. Viele der Wartenden, die seine zornigen Reden gehört hatten, ver-folgten aus dem Augenwinkel, ob er Erfolg haben würde und zwinkerten mir ohne eine Regung im Gesichtsausdruck zu. Schließlich verschwand er und ich konnte an-erkennendes Murmeln hören und vorsichtiges Lächeln in meine Richtung. Einer, der Englisch konnte, sagte leise: He has made it, er hat’s geschafft. Die Geschichte zeigt, dass die Kontrollen nicht neutral vorgenommen werden, sondern manchmal auch ein Moment der subjektiven Einschätzung oder Schikane enthalten.

Nach drei Stunden, als die Schlangen der Wartenden „abgearbeitet“ waren, sind wir gegangen. Draußen war gute Luft. Die Taxen auf der Bethlehemer Seite warteten auf die ersten Besucher. Der Teeladen war offen, die Männer an der Imbissbude mit Fa-laffeln und die Andenkenverkäufer hofften auf einen guten Tag, immerhin Sonntag, mit der Aussicht auf mehr Pilger, die die Heiligen Stätten und Kirchen der Stadt auch auf diesem Weg besuchen würden.

Für uns war Frühstück angesagt. Und dann der erste Kirchenbesuch.

Mit Carl, dem Schweden, war ich im Gottesdienst der lutherischen Gemeinde von Beit Jala. Am späten Nachmittag waren wir dann alle vier mit Asa, der baptistischen Kollegin aus Finnland, in der Baptistischen Kirche. Die Gottesdienste waren sehr un-terschiedlich. Beim ersten hatte ich das Vergnügen, dass ich, obwohl der Gottes-dienst ja in Arabisch gehalten wurde, immer wusste, wo wir im Ablauf waren; auch darum, weil der Pfarrer immer wieder ein Stück Liturgie auf Deutsch für die Gäste-gruppe sagte. Allerdings sind wir als Ökumenische Begleiter – immerhin auf Anfrage der hiesigen Kirchen hier – nicht begrüßt oder beachtet worden. Im zweiten Gottes-dienst konnten wir uns alle wohl fühlen, vor allem weil dort wunderschön gesungen wurde, eigene Gesänge, keine übersetzten deutschen Choräle. Und weil der Predi-ger uns ausführlich vorgestellt hat und seine sehr lange und lebhafte Predigt immer wieder für uns unterbrochen und mit drei Sätzen auf Englisch zusammengefasst hat.

Dabei hatte ich das ganz eigene Vergnügen, mit meinen Kollegen leise eine Wette darauf abzuschließen, über welchen Text der Prediger predigte. Er sagte zwar mehr-fach an, er predige über Lukas 15, die Verse 17 und 18. Aber seine Übersetzung war ganz klar kein biblisches Wort: „Der erste Schritt, um ein Problem zu lösen, ist der, zu erkennen und anzuerkennen, dass da ein Problem ist“. Diesen Satz hat er so oft ge-sagt, dass er wie ein neues Gebot klang. Aber Lukas 15? Meine Schätzung war, dass er die Verse vor sich hatte, in denen der Verlorene Sohn erkennt, dass er falsch gehandelt hat und bei seinem Vater zuhause besser aufgehoben wäre, als bei den Schweinen in der Ferne. Meine Schätzung hat sich hinterher, jeder kann das nun in der Bibel selber nachschlagen, als richtig erwiesen. Nach diesem Gottesdienst hat jeder von uns Gespräche mit den interessierten Gemeindegliedern geführt. Und das war’s doch, was wir wollten.

Das schönste Erlebnis dieses Tages war aber der Besuch im Kulturzentrum des Flüchtlingslagers von Ayda. Und das muss ich natürlich wiedergeben.

Bethlehem hat drei Flüchtlingslager. Man darf sich keine Zeltstädte vorstellen, son-dern mehrstöckige Häuser, die dicht gedrängt zwischen die älteren Wohngebiete ge-setzt sind. Darüber hängen die Gerüche der Armut. Das Kulturzentrum ist von Irland gespendet worden. Unsere Teamer treffen hier jeden Sonntag eine Gruppe von Ju-gendlichen, die als „Englisch-Klasse“ zusammen kommen. Heute singen sie nicht, weil Eirik, der Freiwillige aus Norwegen, mit der Gitarre nicht bei uns ist. Wir machen Spiele und die Jugendlichen spielen, wie bei uns, wenn sie zuerst so tun, als seien sie viel zu alte für so was und dann sind sie voll bei der Sache. Beim zweiten Spiel mussten sie zeichnen. Und das war das Stichwort.

Draußen, gegenüber der Eingangstür, war eine lange Gartenmauer mit einer ganzen Serie von Bildern aus der jüngeren Geschichte Palästinas bemalt, teilweise mit Mo-saiken gestaltet. Es war naive Malerei, offensichtliche von Laien gemalt. Bilder vom ländlichen Leben, wie es einmal war ; dann vom Eindringen der israelischen Panzer und Soldaten; ein Bild mit den Namen der zerstörten und mit jüdischen Siedlungen überbauten Dörfer, mit dem großen Schlüssel, Symbol der vernichteten Häuser, bzw. der alten Schlüssel, die in jeder Flüchtlingsfamilie neben der Tür hängen. Weiter zeigt die Gartenmauer Bilder von der Intifada; und vom täglichen Stress der Okkupa-tion. Jetzt begann Carl ein Gespräch über das Bemalen von Mauern mit den Jugend-lichen. Linda übernahm die Sprecherrolle: Ja, die Bilder haben wir mit den Künstlern zusammen gemalt. Wir haben darüber diskutiert, was sie malen sollen. Und in der Intifada-Szene haben wir uns hingestellt und Hände gehalten. Sie reden über die Bil-der und darüber, wie sie die Geschichte ihres Volkes sehen. Dann leitet Carl über: Was ist mit den Graffiti und Sprüchen an der Sperr-Mauer? Er zeigt rüber, wo wenige hundert Meter entfernt die hohe Trenn-Mauer zu sehen ist. Wir lesen dort die Slo-gans, wenn wir am Kontrollpunkt zu tun haben. Ja!, kommt wieder die Antwort, das waren wir. Und wieder erzählen sie, dass sie manchmal dorthin gehen und ihren Zorn dort in Sprüche umsetzen, wie „We don’t want the Wall!“ oder „Free Palestine“. Und die Graffiti in fremden Sprachen?, fragen wir. Ja, das waren wir mit unseren Freunden und sie erzählen vom Jugendlager im Sommer, wo Jugendliche aus Euro-pa da waren und in ihren Sprachen, portugiesisch, griechisch, polnisch usw., ihren Protest an die Mauer geschrieben haben. Ich erinnere mich and die folgenden: „War-saw Ghetto1943 – Bethlehem Wall 2006“ und „Gott ist zu groß für nur eine Religion“ und „Jesus hat über Jerusalem geweint – wir weinen über Palästina“, steht da z.B. auf Englisch. (Und der das geschrieben hat, war kein guter Bibelkenner, denn in den Evangelien wird erzählt, wie Jesus über das Unrecht weint, das die Jerusalemer tun und dulden; nicht darüber, was sie erleiden.) Die Jugendlichen lachen, jetzt sind es vor allem die Jungs, die von ihren Ausflügen an die Mauer reden.

Carl nimmt eine letzte Wendung. Er zeigt auf mich und sagt, Gottfried kommt aus Berlin und kennt auch eine Mauer. Sofort gehen die Jugendlichen darauf ein. Ja, von der Berliner Mauer wissen sie. Und ich muss von der Nacht erzählen, in der die Mauer geöffnet und nie wieder geschlossen wurde. Wie die Menschen oben auf die Mauer geklettert waren und zu tanzen angefangen hatten. Wie die Soldaten, das Gewehr umgehängt, hilflos und ohne brauchbare Befehle, wie zu reagieren sei, daneben standen. Wie der Offizier, fassungslos vor diesem Chaos in seinem Ver-antwortungsbereich, den singenden und tanzenden Menschen auf der Mauer zurief: Vorsichtig, fallt nicht runter! Wie die ersten Menschen Werkzeug zur Hand hatten, mit dem sie die Mauer bearbeiteten. Und wie später die Menschen Bruchstücke der Mauer als Erinnerung in ihre Regale legten oder verschenkten. – Die Jugendlichen im Flüchtlingslager Ayda hören zu, sie lachen aber nicht. Ob sie glauben, dass sie so eine Nacht oder so einen Tag erleben werden? Nein, das können sie nicht. Ich er-zähle von Berlin und dass damals niemand im Ernst daran gedacht hat, was sich dann so überraschend und folgenreich abspielen würde. Ob ich glaube, dass ihre Mauer fallen werde. Ja!, sage ich ohne Zögern und hoffe, dass ich überzeugend klin-ge. Ich kann an ihren Augen sehen, dass sie den Gedanken aufnehmen, aber nicht richtig unterbringen können. Eines wissen sie aber genau: Nein, Bruchstücke der Mauer würden sie nicht sammeln und nicht verschenken. Die Mauer ist schrecklich, sagen sie, wir wollen sie weg haben und nichts mehr davon sehen…

Nächste Woche wollen die Jugendlichen wieder kommen und singen und reden.

Unser Sonntag war lang. Er war ja der erste Arbeitstag für die Palästinenser und hat uns ein Stück ihres Alltags morgens, auf dem Weg zur Arbeit gezeigt. Er hatte uns mit Christen zusammengebracht und an ihrem Feiertag teilnehmen lassen. Er hatte uns mit den Jugendlichen im Flüchtlingslager zusammen geführt und mit ihrer Suche nach Hoffnung. Und vielleicht waren wir einigen Menschen aus Bethlehem dabei sel-ber als Zeugen aus einer Welt erschienen, in der es doch Zukunft und Hoffnung gibt.

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